February 2018 This type of yarn is common in the UK. Thank you for this insightful article. This page is a godsend . August 2018 In stockinette it’s *really* obvious. You can see her producing rolags, and then using a navajo spindle to do a form of long draw. You are however spinning long draw, which is a more woolen type of draft and will be trapping more air in the yarn. In the pictures, the woollen spun samples all seem bigger that the worsted spun. September 2015 Thank you for helping me understand these yarn differences…this will help me understand why one yarn will make me swoon, and another yarn, totally different, really makes my knees weak. The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. You can see the stitches in the worsted swatches just show up. To make things a bit clearer, this article sets out the different types of yarns available and helps you choose the right ball (or skein) of yarn for your beginner knitting project. June 2020 Color is usually lighter in a woolen drafted yarn. Advent December 2016 Thank you for an excellent and informative article, Jill! Worsted-spun yarn may be just the ticket for the heirloom cabled sweater you’ve been planning, and it is ideal for long-wearing handspun socks. April 2020 The Different Yarn Weights. It includes the process like blend, add oil, combed, divide into strips and twist and so on. June 2015 The compression of a worsted draft puts more … It includes the process like blend, add oil, combed, divide into strips and twist and so on. This is an excellent article and explanation. This is because the combed fibers, lacking air pockets, can more readily spin up into a compact, dense, and sturdy yarn. January 2015 It’s easy to see what’s going on with the yarn and knitting in the samples. Woolen yarn is fluffy, soft, and light. Now I can shop for yarn with a little more knowledge. Thanks. Brilliant. March 2015 28 minutes 0/3 Completed Share. Now I can make better informed decisions when selecting yarns for a project, and now that next trip to my LYS will really become an adventure! They're incredibly elastic and bouncey. Shop Talk Jo, You have a real gift. Unfortunately you can’t tell from the ballband unless the manufacturer has included that information. What’s the difference between a worsted weight and DK yarn? Combing was traditionally done on large heavy combs, and was done by men. August 2014 I think I’ll need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. October 2014 Never discount the yarn lust factor with yarn. March 2014 Sign up now to receive 10% off your next order in the MDK Shop! A drumcarder can also be used. February 2020 March 2020 First, there’s a big difference in the way the materials feel. October 2018 I’d assumed it was me, but now I wonder if it’s my yarn? Dogs Semi-worsted yarn is spun worsted-style, using fibers prepared in a random arrangement. As a verb worsted is (worst).As a adjective worsted is defeated, overcome. In woolen spun yarn, the fibres are ‘carded’ before they are spun into threads and air is introduced. It makes yarn that is lofty and irregular. The Windham is more uniform and sleek looking even with the inherent visual softness of the Merino fiber. Trust me, they r super different in thickness. July 2020 Worsted yarns, on the other hand, are both smooth and dense with a lovely lustre and the ability to drape beautifully. The Aran and Worsted yarns are great for knitting winter garments. This article is so well written and I love how you explain how the type of yarn will effect the finished product. And in addition, fabrics or knitwear that made up of woolen wool yarns are not as durable as worsteds; and fabrics or knitwear that made up of worsted wool yarn do hold crease … Oh my gosh! September 2014 Most knitters and crocheters use these two to make sweaters, … What’s the difference between yarn and wool? This was the clearest explanation regarding the what, why, and how of woolen vs. worsted spun I have come across. Depending on their knowledge of spinning and yarns, it gets a bit tricky to articulate sometimes. May 2013, All Congratulations on shedding light on these two styles of spinning that are so confusing for many spinners. Wool, on the other hand, is a textile fiber that originates from animals. I’ll jump right in with the big one. September 2020 I am so excited to have found this article today. Because the fibers are parallel, worsted spun yarns are denser and less airy than woolen spun. July 2019 It’s not just the beautiful dyeing…. Wool Processing and Spinning: Worsted vs. Woolen . Thank you! I’m trying to educate myself on the different weights of yarn and could only find “worsted” listed as a weight. Yarn weights were developed when yarn meant wool and (perhaps) cotton. Under magnification, worsted yarns look smooth with long fibres, and woolen yarns are much hairier, with lots of short fibres and more pokey-out bits. July 2016 Thank you! What is Worsted Wool? Many commercial yarns are spun in this way, particularly sock … Worsted makes a shinier yarn, reflecting light, and is slicker. Today’s topic is woolen and worsted drafted yarns. Thanks. Sign up for our weekly newsletter full of MDK fun, and you'll save 10% on your next order. April 2015 This video of a Navajo Weaver has long been a favourite of mine. I finally understand what worsted and wollen mean. Great article! Thank you for there explanation. Woolen yarns contains lots of air, they're light, fluffy, and will often have small ends of fibre poking out of the yarn structure. Over at Into the Whirled, the people come from all directions into the booth in a hullabaloo of shopping, woolen style. As modern spinners we can now get some much smaller and lighter combs, but combing is still a real physical workout. I have just started spinning using a Navajo type spindle and I was unsure that I was l on the right lines. May 2019 Countryside Some have a naturally rougher surface. She provides a very thorough, but not too heavy look at the two in regards to […] It’s a great resource to bookmark. September 2013 Is there a list? Woollen and worsted yarn are two types of yarn that can be handspun. Great article, thank you for this very detailed account , I learned so much ! As a very new spinner (wheel) I found this article so informative and easy to understand. So what difference does it make, why bother to think about spinning technique and processing type before spinning? Spinningwithapurpose My question is how does one know whether a Yarn is worsted or woolen spun if one is not sophisticated enough to know just by looking? Wool Type Fine, Wool Type Medium, Wool Type Long and Wool Type Double – coated. Going to send people to this. Because woollen yarns contain a lot of air, they tend to turn out nicely light and fluffy, warm and soft, sometimes with tiny fibre ends poking out of the weave. Excellent article – great swatch/photo examples too. Great article! With worsted yarn, the fibres are ‘combed’, smoothing them out and creating a smooth denser yarn. With your information I can now choose wisely, thus ensuring my yarn/pattern will be completed. October 2017 June 2013 There is a large difference between the spinning and manufacturing process of both woolen and worsted yarn. The hand feel of yarn Woolen wool yarns are bulky, uneven and have soft, fuzzy appearance; worsted wool yarns are fine, smooth and have crisp appearance. July 2014 I’m usually a picker, and I never pull from the center of a ball. I knit swatches of all four yarns in stockinette, moss stitch, and a simple lace stitch, and took close-up comparison photos of the worsted and woolen yarns overlapping. A lot. Brilliant exposition, Katie! I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. These are actually a scaled down version of the historical combs, but having handled a pair I can tell you that they're still seriously heavy to handle. I did not know this was the difference in certain types of yarn. Woolen Yarn Wrosted Yarn; It is spun from short wool fibers of 1” to 3”. In this photo below you can see the 1ply Supreme (worsted) on the left has more of a halo whereas the 1ply Cobweb (woollen) on the right has better stitch definition – it almost feels like cotton although it is 100% wool. You can see the difference when it’s wound into a ball, and in the strand. I guess I thought it referred to the ply, like 4-ply. Now, I finally understand what it really means and how it will impact my future knitting! Thank you! February 2015 Thanks! If I’m knitting a gansey to last more than a few years, and want fantastic, crisp stitch definition, I’ll choose a worsted spun yarn. Here’s what woolen and worsted mean to your knitted sweaters and accessories. . Thank you. I’ve got the same question as an earlier commenter – one leg of my knit stitches is tighter than the other. Non Wool Club April 2014 Even taking in account the difference of color and fiber blend, they are two different yarns. You can write a comment on the yarn’s Ravelry page suggesting that drafting info be added. Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy is the yarn that ran out when you were an inch from the finish. Spinning Fascinating! December 2020 The Empire is more uneven looking, a little airier as well as fuzzy. One way is controlled; twist is brought to the fiber like a gift. May 2017 The combing process removed all the shorter length hairs, leaving behind fibres of the same length, free from tangles. The squeeze of drafting a yarn worsted brings fibers closer, for greater depth of color, and the smoothness of the surface reflects light, intensifying the color and shine. The most common source of wool is the fleece of sheep. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. The twist brings air with it, and the surface isn’t controlled by smoothing as it hits the fiber. When prepared in a worsted … Thanks for explaining the difference, it's interesting to see those subtle contrasts between the stitching! You explained it so well. I have saved this post as I will go over it again and again. The photos were such a vivid illustration of the difference between these two types of drafting and their results for your knitting. Knitted garments will be warm from the air trapped in the yarn, but patterns do not show up as clearly. Types of Wool Yarn: There are 4 different types. I ALWAYS substitute my yarns and I know now that my yearn choices are the reason I never seem happy with all my hard work. ❤️. Thank you for this article. If you want knife-edge stitch definition, go for a worsted drafted yarn. The fiber is compressed and smoothed, and air is squeezed out as the twist is applied to the fiber. You then spin using a long draw technique that maintains that rolled structure. The Empire (on the right) is less consistent, and looks a little puffier. The worsted yarn will be smooth and compact, whereas the woollen yarn, although made of the same raw material, will be soft full and somewhat irregular. Thank you so very much for the enlightening article and all the examples. Jillian Moreno spins, knits and weaves just so she can touch all of the fibers. Extremely helpful! I sort of knew all of this but your explanation and illustrations pulled my knowledge all together. A short draw is used in spinning worsted fibers (as opposed to a long draw). Just asking because s-on-s yarns produce a particular asymmetric shape when knitted. January 2018 Thank you for explaining what it actually means. There are various form of long draw, some make more air filled yarns than others, but the one thing they have in common is that drafting backwards motion, allowing twist to enter the drafting zone. Folks wait their turn to enter the booth and shop in a controlled way. 28 minutes 0/3 Completed Begin. This system is widely adopted among crafters, yarn manufacturers, designers and publishers, so consider it the gold standard for categorising yarn weights. • Wool is a special type of yarn as it is natural and obtained from animal hair • Yarn is a continuous and long thread of materials as diverse as cotton, wool, nylon, etc. Thank you for a well written and useful article. In colorwork, the edge that gives a worsted yarn great stitch definition also makes colors stand apart, while woolen drafted yarns create softness and blur between colors. Ravelry has a searchable field for this info now, but unfortunately many yarnies/companies haven’t filled it in yet. Does this happen with all yarns? Woolen yarns are the ones you might find bits of hay in. I am currently knitting with Empire and wondered what made me love it so much more than (another lovely but unnamed) yarn of the same gauge. Here’s a simplistic overview of the difference (and why it matters). She wrote the book Yarnitecture: A Knitter’s Guide to Spinning: Building Exactly the Yarn You Want so she could use all of the fiber words. In relation to the thinner 1ply yarns Woollen Spun has a crisper feel, whereas the Worsted Spun has more drape and softness. Ok, first up lets look at how the fibres are running in to the yarn. What a fascinating series of posts by Ms. Moreno! July 2013 I feel I finally understand the difference. Both types require different fiber preparation on spinning techniques. And I also now understand my past failures a little better… haha! But more importantly, our needles are all labelled differently too. Thank you, you’re a great explainer. So at my LYS how can I tell from the label on the yarn? Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. June 2014 Aran weight yarns lie between the Double Knit and the Chunky yarns. Time to read it again, more closely! Yes, the UK and US do use slightly different terms for their yarns (Americans prefer to call an aran-thickness yarn ‘worsted’ for instance and the term DK is generally only used in the UK). October 2015 So many Tom Hardys. Bonus points for great pictures to make everything visual and extra clear. I’ve wondered lately why some yarn I loved in my LYS seemed perfect, but when swatched, especially in garter stitch, looked so shiny, something I didn’t want. Feb 5, 2018 - What the terms worsted and woolen mean to handspinners. January 2020 June 2019 SpoinnersAdvent So well illustrated and explained. Aran or Afghan? The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. In all the photos, the left swatch of the pair is the worsted spun yarn and the right swatch is woolen spun. Try Ravelry and yarnsub.com, or phone the manufacturer (or ask your LYS owner to). Bees Thank you so much! That pushes us in to the worsted end of the spectrum. April 2016 Some yarns are not so obvious. Woolen yarn is spun allowing the twist to enter the drafted fibers, using fibers prepared in a random arrangement. August 2013 How about giving us more names of worsted and woolen yarns currently available? Weaving. Jill Draper’s Windham (Merino wool, worsted spun) and Empire (Rambouillet wool, woolen spun) are perfect examples of that. It is fine and smooth yarn. If you are unsure or curious about the outcome of a particular stitch pattern, swatch it. BTW, I made a lovely airy lacy quite-warm shawl using reclaimed 100% cashmere of about cobweb weight, that I believe was woolen spun. December 2014 You have made it so clear to me. As more and more creative yarns appear, from fluffy acrylic ‘eyelash’ yarns to ones made from recycled fabric, the … I think it also helps to think of the woolen spun as “grippier” (as in “grips more”) since all the fibres are not tamed into a smooth yarn but are sort of sticking out all over. Great explanation, i aways spin long draw and card my alpaca, tearing long strips off of the batt, i would be interested in working out what type my yarn is. So, and this is without seeing your yarn, your drafting, or the fibre, it's probably a lofty semi-worsted yarn. February 2019 October 2020 I’ll be referring back to it next time I’m looking for yarn for a specific project. It can also refer, among other things, to a method of processing wool—the worsted method, as opposed to the woolen method. I don’t believe a label gives this info. Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! If either of these fibers is in your yarn, no matter how worsted and smooth it is spun—it will become a fuzzy yarn. Very good, educational description. The compression of a worsted draft puts more individual fibers into a length of yarn, making it heavier. December 2019 very smartly elaborated the article. The Yarn Weight Chart below gives a handy comparison of different knitting and crochet yarns along with needle and hook sizes, approximate meterage to the 100g and WPI, using UK, US, German and Australian terminology.. Yarn weight is important in achieving the correct gauge or tension for a particular project and can help with yarn substitution. January 2014 It is a bulky and uneven yarn. There are two basic ways of drafting fiber by hand or by machine: worsted draft or woolen draft. I’ll choose a woolen spun yarn. It’s like choosing between the cleaned-up, slicked-back Tom Hardy in Legend or the grungy Tom Hardy in Mad Max: Fury Road. Patterned knitting will not be as distinct as with worsted yarn. Both yarns are great, but there are advantages to using certain yarns for certain projects. Yarns in this weight category can be made out of wool or acrylic. December 2017 The difference between worsted, semi-worsted and woolen Woolen: it is a craft that the clean wool material is divided into narrow strips after loosening and teasing then spun to the yarn directly. This is so helpful and interesting not to mention how easy to understand. https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. September 2017 Perfect. Try yarnsub.com or ask LYS staff. So much yarn, so many choices — the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! November 2019 May 2016 It also helps to clean the fibers of debris. October 2016 March 2019 I just started stranded colorwork and this with your swatches is a good resource. So good! August 2020 Spinning Woolen, Worsted, and Semi-Worsted Yarn. May 2014 Your explanation is great, and reaffirms my decision to purchase your Yarnitecture book awhile back. March 2016 I needed to understand these concepts — and to have them revealed in just this way. Your explanation of the 2 ends of the spectrum also makes it very easy to understand our process and resulting yarns. The yarn isn't smoothed, it's simply stretched out like a piece of chewing gum, that traps lots of air in the yarn, and makes it very bouncey and elastic. The indie Dyer might know how their base is spun if one is buying direct but maybe a LYS owner might not. Many people ask us about the process and the type of yarn we produce. I feel like I can make better yarn/pattern matches and explain these variables to others who want me to knit for them and their only concern is color. Thanks for the clear and concise approach – I get it now! I will only cover those relevant to describing the differences in the production of woollen and worsted yarns and fabrics. Yarn stashes are nice, but at some point, I become a yarn collector instead of a knitter if I never get projects done due to errors in purchases. August 2017 April 2018 Thank you so much for sharing. November 2016 Thank you! God Bless. It does however produce a lot of waste fibres (though those can still be carded for a more textured yarn). Oh that’s right! Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. This definitely affects your choice for a project that will be steeked, but also for fair isle or intarsia colourwork where the woolen spun will fill in the gaps between stitches of different colours. If you are new to spinning yarn, the different parts of a spinning wheel can sometimes seem confusing at first! Miss Babs has an orderly line. How satisfying! Great article! The word "worsted" does not always refer to yarn weight. Color. Fibers lie parallel to each other to create a shinier yarn. Here’s a thread on Ravelry discussing it: https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, Really impressed by the author. How a yarn looks also depends on (did you read my last article?) The worsted will tend to emphasize the gaps between the colours. A lot of totally digestable information, that was logically arranged and illustrated… and you even sprinkled it with touches of humor. 1. This is the fun part about being a knitter who knows their yarn; it’s all up to you. Wrosted Yarn has fine diameter. Amber Mozell recently wrote a great blog outlining the differences. This is a new day for me. Topics. April 2017 September 2019 'Carding' is one of the processes which untangles the wool fibers and lays them straight, side by side. Classically speaking there are 2 types of yarn. The weight. Chickens Great information! January 2016 A beautifully written, lucid and illuminating lesson, and several fascinating aspects to the distinctions. Keep up with her exploits at jillianmoreno.com. Module 1 — Review of the woollen and worsted production systems re-caps on the differences between worsted versus woollen yarn production, the early operations prior to spinning and their aims. Shelter is textured, and Arbor is smooth as silk. You are the Rachel Maddow of yarn, delving in at a granular level, exploring every detail, and explaining it all with an engaging writing style drenched in clarity. Any suggestions? Wondering about the difference between worsted vs. woolen yarn? May 2015 December 2013 Thanks. What a great article. Some will argue that spinning woolen vs. worsted is not even an actual spinning technique, but a way to describe the final yarn produced. January 2017 Chances are, from the end of your batt the fibres are being fed in to the yarn along the direction of the yarn, and not at 90 degrees. It also explores the differences between woollen and worsted processing systems and products. Worsted wools are slick when woven, woolen wools are knitted, crocheted, or woven into softer, fluffier fabric, or fulled fabric. Cheers and Thanks. December 2018 But it’s so difficult to choose between the two Tom Hardys. Does it make that much difference to your gauge? The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. 70% Wool 30% Alpaca, 3.5oz. The difference between these two is not as clear at first glance. Annie. September 2016 November 2020 Woolen and worsted yarn. It is a little bigger than a Worsted weight yarn. That would be worsted-style shopping. That doesn’t happen when fiber is being compressed and smoothed while it becomes a worsted drafted yarn; that happens when the twist limbos into the fiber. A light bulb has definitely gone on for me. and now the skies are clear, the the clouds have drifted away, and the sun is shining! August 2019 It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. Very clear explanation of a new topic to me. May 2020 is traditionally spun from carded rolags (this was the job small children carried out). Woolen and worsted yarns. An extreme example is angora or mohair. The Difference Between Worsted Vs. Woolen Yarn. Woolen Yarn is soft, light, and fluffy. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. Brooklyn Tweed’s Arbor (Targhee wool, worsted spun) and Shelter (Targhee/Columbia wool, woolen spun) are perfect examples. No need to go to the gym if you do an hours wool combing! October 2013 Great article and most helpful. Types of fine wool yarn such as merino are wonderfully soft. Stitch definition. When I unplied the yarn and looked at individual strands, I could see a difference and a dead giveaway. 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